What horse power nitrous oxide kit can you put on Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons?

I have an LT1 rebiult with a Speed Pro engine rebuild kit. It has 9.90:1 compression hypereutectic pistons, piston rings, crankshaft, rods, main bearings, cam bearings, rod bearings, high volume oil pump, and the LT4 Hot Cam Kit. The heads have been ported, have a 3 angle valve job, and double coil springs. The intake has been ported for a twin 58mm throttle body and also to match the head intake ports. The cam has .525 lift on the intake and exhaust with a 113 degree lobe separation. It has Accel 36 lbs. injectors, MSD optispark distributor, and GM Performance timing chain set. It also has the self aligning 1.6 ratio roller rocker arms. It has Hooker headers, 3" exhaust through an X pipe, MagnaFlow Magnapacks mufflers and Flow Master tail pipes, in a 1997 Camaro.

What horse power nitrous oxide kit can you put on Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons?
I would never use hypereutectic pistons on any engine that was going to be blown, turbo'ed or gassed! Any lean condition will blow the engine immediately. The last and only engine I built with "hyper" pistons blew during a very brief lean condition and totally destroyed my engine. When I started tearing it down there was pieces of pistons and rings in the intake manifold. The pistons that didn't "explode" were still heavily damaged, and the oil pan was filled with engine debris. My suggestion is to buy the best forged pistons that you can find and replace the "hyper's"!





http://www.taperformance.com/hyperteu.ht...


http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/s...
Reply:Hypers are more brittle than forged. There is a reason why power adder apps use forged pistons. That said, I probably wouldn't try over a 100 shot and even then I'd probably sneak up to it to make sure everything could keep up to the task.
Reply:whats good about Hypereutectic pistons is they are rigid aka stiff, thats also whats bad about Hyper pistons. This makes them britle by comparison as Red Devil has pointed out. Going a little further this means they are less forgiving agianst shock. Boosted and N2O engines can easily produce higher shock loads than NA, ESPECIALY N2O!!! Thus the more britle hyper pistons tend to shatter when overwhelmed with N2O abuse. GT points out that lean cycles kill engines, this is especially true of N2O... never, Never, NEVER let a N2O engine go LEAN when flowing N2O! ALWAYS make sure your fueling system is up to the job of feeding your setup under N2O flow (this is a cardinal rule of running an N2O equiped engine) that being said you can still run some N2O, say 150HP or less on aftermarket heat-treated Hyper pistons as referenced in this forum:


http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/power-...





igniton retard is a must also, why you ask? see:


http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?acti...
Reply:Pistons are not likely to be your limiting factor. With the higher amounts of nitrous supplied your fuel and ignition system needs to be properly matched. Fuel pressure needs maintained throughout run and timing dialed back the more you use. You can get away with 100-150 hp shot with no mods if motor runs good. Any more than that you will be in danger of detonation if the right spark plugs, timing, fuel pressure aren't all working together.
Reply:i wouldn't do that,
Reply:YOU MIGHT GET AWAY WITH THE 50 HP SHOT OF NOS,AND HOPE YOU DONT HAVE A NOS BACK FIRE BECAUSE THERE GOES THE TOP OF THAT PISTON AND YOUR NICE MOTOR,,
Reply:Tha'ts a sweet combnation of part's,for a street motor ya got there.Them motors in that body style,are so much work to take in and out,and the fact that none of of the other parts in the bottom end are forged....Do u really want to risk using any spray..
Reply:Without wishing to be seen as unhelpful, the answer is the same as if I ask you, "what is the MPG of this car".





Short answer is - it depends HUGELY





The pistons are almost academic unless the stock ones are notable weak - if you run lean you will kill your engine, if you don't, the chances are you can easily double the typical output of the engine **IF** you do it right.





If you are an American guy, you won't like this bit perhaps, but the simple truth is that although NOS is the most popular name in nitrous oxide, it provides DISMAL quality solenoids - anyone selling "solenoid seal repair kits" along with their brand new solenoid kind of gives you a self-confessed clue here.





Eventually they leak - and then you start running lean.





If you are after maximum performance, then you will need a progressive controller. Ideally you also need to use nylon lines - or if you think the braided waterpipes look better use them as a cover for a nylon inner.





Heres why:-





Nearly all US kits and solenoids are jetted at the point of injection - and the solenoid is two foot back. Result of course is that when you come OFF the nitrous, there is a BIG reservoid or liquid nitrous in the line between solenoid and jet - which keeps on flowing until the reservoir is empty. The fuel however being liquid and thus uncompressable - stops instantly. Result being each time you come off the gas with most US kits, you run lean - admittedly usually under a fairly relaxed throttle but even so.....





Incidentally, if you use nylon you don't need a purge valve - the nitrous doesn't turn to gas in the nylon - it stays liquid - even days later. If I turn off the cylinder in either of my cars when going on holiday for example - when I get back, the guage will STILL show full pressure. Properly fitted nylon doesn't leak - at all. VERY few "braided water mains" can boast the same a day or two later - let alone a week or two.





Result - no lost gas from leaks, no wasted gas from having to purge every time you want to use it. Sure if you want the ricer button go for it - or have a separate (cheapo solenoid will do for this) system running of CO2 - cheaper to fill and looks identical.





Getting back on track, the progressive controller means several things:-





1. You don't waste traction at the start line by burning your tyres and looking like a ricer





2. Your engine (and transmission train) receives a SMOOOTH increase in power that can be tuned such that you JUST keep the wheels from losing traction - giving you close to ideal acceleration - ideal for both track AND for street use - though on the street you may choose a less aggressive build-up curve.





3 For the reasons above - smoothness - the engine and transmission receive no hard "JOLTS" which is usually where the damage occurs - especially when some newb engages the system going up a hill in a high gear. No controller and bye bye engine - with a controller, you might have a chance.





3. You save nitrous as all the time you are on less than 100% power and still accelerating as hard as the tyres will permit - you are saving nitrous as well as optimising performance.





Crude rule of thumb is that whatever an engine and transmission can handle with a single stage system, you can easily double with a decent controller. A two stage does NOT mean the same - as the second JARRING on an already stressed system may easily push things too far. Think in terms of trying to move a car by running at it with your arms locked in front. Maximum effort, HORRIBLE jarring, damage to transmission possible (your arms) and also ineffective us of power. Now from a standing start, apply progressively more and more power to the car from your arms - result no shock value and maximum use of the avaiable power to get results.





If you choose to use a controller though you **MUST** use a solenoid MADE for the job - there are UK ones see link at bottom for more info. they are not cheap - but I am still using the first set I bought over 5 years later - during which time I have pumped HUNDREDS of pounds worth of gas through them. Still seal perfectly without needing a "solenoid repair kit"





If you use a progressive controller and a NOS / NX / solenoid then either double up on them (put two in series) or make sure you have a runabout handy for when the seal fails and you run lean. If you put the two in series (for which price you could have bought one DESIGNED for the job instead of a "prettyfied industrial one") then you still need to check periodically that one hasn't sprung a leak and is just held in check by the backup. Industrial solenoids simply are not designed to be pulsed.





Oh and you might want to run one or even two heat ranges colder on your plugs too - certainly one heat range colder - if you don't - and you are using some serious increase in power, your plug tips will get hot enough to start pre-igniting, always nice to avoid that one if you can ;)





Mark